End of the Line

A busy few days here in Esterillos Oeste. Went into Jaco Friday, took care of some business with our lawyer there, then went thro the rather convoluted process of opening a bank account. This involved two letters of reference which were created on the spot in his office, then a trip to the bank with his secretary. The whole thing took about an hour and included the perennial question which is always asked when you buy property, register a vehicle, open an account, etc. here i.e. "Are you married? and how many times?" Not sure what legal significance this has as far as number of marriages, but it's a staple. This time, they also wanted to know my monthly income. I supplied a number but then was told I needed proof of this. Not having thought to bring along a copy of my 1040, I was at a loss until I learned that "proof" could also simply be a letter from my lawyer saying it was so!

Back to the house where what I thought would be a simple task of changing the backdoor lock turned into quite a job. A "problema pequeña" when the bolt proved too big for the existing slot was solved, sort of, when an arc welder was produced. A long piece of braided copper wire was unrolled and two bare ends stuck into the outlet for the stove, the other ends fastened to the arc box and suddenly sparks flew while I averted my eyes to avoid flashburn. The whole thing was definitely of the "sledge hammer and cutting torch" school of home repair. When the screws turned out to be too short to reach, a chisel, hammer and power drill proved handy to remove about 1/4 inch of the wood from the door. The crew did several other minor repairs including replacing a roof tile which had literally bit the dust, and everything took several hours with a break for breakfast and lunch.

Today was spent breakfasting on the beach, packing, storing the bike (inside the house of course) and otherwise getting ready to leave. Tomorrow (if he doesn't forget), John.........the sales rep.......is supposed to give me a ride on his quad the five miles or so to a hotel where I can catch the Interbus directly to the San Jose Airport. If all goes well, I'll be in Chico Tuesday afternoon. "Back to the World"

Esterillos

The picture I've been waiting to take!

THURSDAY April 10

Left Tamarindo around 11, and made my eventual way to Jaco'. Beautiful ride of about 120 miles, but it was "eventual" because I got turned around in Puntarenas and had to stop and ask directions twice from (our mainstay during the trip) taxi drivers. My map didn't show it, but Jogi had told me that there was now a bridge across Golfo de Nicoya at it's most inland part of course and this saved a lot of time versus going around the gulf or taking a 1 1/2 hour ferry across. Thought about swinging into Jaco', but it was starting to rain a little and threatened a lot more, so I made it to Esterillos Oeste, told the guard at the project I had a house there, but he (very reassuringly I must say) insisted on checking with the sales office who vouched for my bona fides and just like that..............I was parked at my house. It seems a bit unreal to see my bike at my house here in Costa Rica. Total distance traveled: 4120 miles.

After unloading, I rode down to the beach, had a few beers to pat myself on the back a bit, then pizza at the place across the road from the Low Tide Bar. Back at the house, I spent considerable time putting sheets on the bottom bunk, got the air conditioning working to my great relief, showered and turned in. ¡El viaje mio es terminado finalmente!

Jogi and Verena

Tamarindo Day 4

Only three days, cumulative of 250 miles (3 round trips to Nicoya), about 20 phone calls, but finally got the inspection of the bike done today! The inspection itself was surprisingly detailed.......check all lights, signals, etc. VIN and engine number, emissions check. They were supposed to do a brake test, but the computer for that section wasn´t working, so they skipped it. Fortunately, had two little dinky red reflectors where the license used to be since this is also a requirement. Then another station (you ride the bike from station to station inside a large building) where they again check all the numbers in case the first guy screwed up I guess, then back to the office to wait in line for half an hour to get our final papers. Met with Jogi´s attorney and signed a power of attorney again to get the rest of this done over the next several weeks since it can now proceed without me.

There was a scheduled power outage which apparently happens weekly today from 8 AM to 2PM and without air conditioning, it´s pretty warm. Then, another power outage, which Jogi cynically said probably had something do with the work performed earlier, occurred in the evening.........on and off, on and off several times within an hour.

Took a dirt road detour to Playa Avenilla....and had a drink at Lola´s Bar right on the beach, beautiful spot named for the huge pig which the owner has. Then back to the office for more copies and other details, got a bit of a rainstorm which helped settle the dust. Back to Jogi´s rather late for a spaghetti dinner. It´s been great here at Jogi and Verena´s; they have been wonderful, gracious hosts and I´ve enjoyed it very much. ¡Manaña, voy a Jacó y Esterillos! May not be able to post so much since I´ll have to go into Jacó to an Internet cafe to do so.

Tamarindo Day 3

Tuesday April 8, 2008

Another ride 80 miles to the inspection station, another wasted day. Apparently, the computer system for customs and the police doesn´t communicate with the one for the Revisón (inspection) so they wouldn´t let us do anything. The craziest part is that rather than entering our data into their system at the place, the procedure is to FAX the sheets to San Jose where some technician there does the data entry!!!!!!!!!!! Unbloodybelievable!!!!!!! Holy Mother of God.

Time is running out for me to get this done as I fly home Monday and still have much to do at the house in Esterillos plus lawyer business in Jacó. So now, my tentative plan is to try again tomorrow, a prospect which gives me scant hope, and if that doesn´t work, then leave my bike at Jogi´s. Later, he and a friend can ride to Nicoya for the damn inspection, and I´ve already signed a power of attorney with his lawyer to take care of the remainder of the paperwork. I would have to rent a car here and drive to my house.

On the way back, we stopped and saw some toucans......beautiful birds indeed.

We all went out to dinner at the Coconut restaurant, and had a great meal complete with a serenade by strolling musicians, pictures of the ladies in cowboy hats and much merriment. Tomorrow, we´ll try again at the inspection station. (fingers crossed)

Tamarindo Day 2

Monday April 7, 2008

Yesterday, washed clothes, washed the bike, relaxed and just hung out.

Laura, Jogi and Verena's daughter

We went out for pizza at a great little place, owned and run by Italians incidentally so the food was quite good. Was wearing my Valentino Rossi shirt by happenchance which was quite well received by our hosts with comments of, ¨Valentino! ¡Muy Bueno!¨ etc.

Buddy, who reminds me of my dog Dewey

Today was a bust however as we rode 35 miles to Nicoya to the Revisón (the government station where you must have your vehicle inspected as another step in the lengthy process of obtaining registration. We have the official papers in our hand from the customs agent at the border, but were told that we were not yet officially in their computer system (???) (this from Saturday) and thus could do nothing until we were. This could take as long as 3 days, but there may be a way to cut it to one which means we could get this accomplished tomorrow. I can´t believe the inefficiency and lack of communication of the government bureaucracies here. Makes the DMV seem like a model of productivity.

Did buy some sheets for the house, a few other little items needed for survival and changed some money so the trip wasn´t a total waste. Will know later this afternoon if we can do it tomorrow.

Tamarindo At Last!

Sunset at Playa San Juan, Nicaragua

I am here at Jogi and Verena's beautiful home in Tamarindo, Costa Rica. Stayed at the Hotel Casablanca last night in San Juan, Nicaragua and celebrated our last night on the road with some bar-hopping. Hooeeeeeeeee!


Great fun at La Iguana, shooting the breeze with the bartenders, laughing my head off at one guy's impersonation of Harley-Davidson riders, general good time, but I'm not in shape for a night of continuous imbibing, so I bought a t-shirt, and called it a night around midnight while Jogi soldiered on. Only a bit of a headache next morning.

Back over that perfectly horrible road, made worse by a water truck which created mud for my street-oriented tires to slip over. Costa Rica border we hired another tramadore who actually turned out to be honest. We were able to pay the import tax on the bikes (needed if you want permanent registration in Cost Rica) at the customs station altho this involved 2 extra hours and some very unorthodox procedure which worried me considerably as two guys take off with my title and passport and I imagine the worst. They made us remove our US plates, so we will have none for about a month when the temporary cardboard plates come. As long as you carry the paperwork with you, you should be OK if the policia transito stop you. They kept the titles since we will have new ones reissued here. Cost me $1600 import duty which is still cheaper than buying the same bike here. Nearly 4 1/2 hours total at the border.

FINALLY left the border around 4 PM and had to beat cheeks the nearly 80 miles to Tamarindo, arriving just as it got dark.


Jogi's place is lovely indeed complete with a beautiful pool with an Infinity edge, lush landscaping


and an airy open floor plan to the house itself......really nice.. Great pasta/chicken dinner, made a phone call to my wife, and turned in.


a few bugs which hit us in one swarm!


back on the main road from San Juan, heading for the border









Casa de Jogi y Verena


bikes at Jogi´s

The End is in Sight

A day of relative leisure. Left Hotel Los Volcanes after a sumptuous breakfast of huevos rancheros.

Beautiful place really with a nice bar, landscaped grounds, nice rooms.

Hotel Los Volcanes

But, apparently everything in Nicaragua must take forever. Checking out was almost as long as crossing the border....five sheets of paper, each requiring a signature, then each was stamped twice by the clerk (they are very big on stamps down here).

More abominable roads en route to Granada, passed along the margins of the capital city, Managua, but managed to use the GPS for a change to avoid getting too lost in this city of 1.6 million.

Granada is a very scenic, Old Spanish-style resort town on the shores of Lake Nicaragua - the only lake in the world with freshwater sharks. Many classic style homes with interior courtyards and gardens, a city plaza which we parked across from and enjoyed capuchinos on the veranda

of a very swank hotel, Horse-drawn carriages for the tourists (lots of American voices) complete the Old World ambience.

Jogi talked about staying on the beach at San Juan, but I was unprepared for the horrible (even by Nicaraguan standards) road in. Mostly a dirt road with infrequent sections of washed out, potholed pavement, numerous detours as the road is "under construction" across mud, sand and gravel. Road dead ends at the lovely coastal village of San Juan.

Hotel Casa Blanca in San Juan

.........worth the trip. Staying at a great little place right on the beach with intern et, included breakfast, air conditioning.

Tomorrow the journey semi-officially ends at Jogi's house in Tamarindo on the northern coast of Costa Rica. We'll get the bikes registered in the next few days, and then I will ride to Esterillos, take care of numerous things, store the bike and hang out. I'll probably post a few more blogs once there.